Wine Shots – Kir

What Portland’s Pouring, By Jonathan Jenkins

Amalie Roberts has got my number. As soon as I sit down at the counter of her wine bar, and look up at the large chalkboard that lists her selections for the day, I find myself ticking down the list, thinking: “yes, yes, yes, yes” right down the line. Granted, her European-leaning sensibility might have a fair amount in common with my own, but still – it is rare to find a place so ‘on’ with what it offers.

Usually, a good wine gives you a sense of where it’s from; a good wine bar should give you a sense of the person behind it. And, for the life of me, I can’t think of another place in town that gives you such a clear picture of the owner’s personality than Kir. Part of this intimacy is matter of scale: Kir is one of the smaller wine bars in town. Yet in that space they manage to pack in a massive amount of goodness per square foot (GPSF).

One of the main reasons for Kir’s success in choosing what they offer is seasonality. The chalkboard is the only listing of their wines; the menu, which is larger than the size of the kitchen would suggest, is changed and printed daily. On a recent visit, with the heat index making everybody a little squirrelly, white wines and rosés were everywhere.

For the whites: Kuentz-Bas’ Alsatian blend, Spanish Verdejo and Albariño, J.L. Wolf Spätlese Riesling, Basque Txakoli (which was available in rosé form as well until it was quickly consumed), a Sartarelli Verdicchio and a Heidler Grüner Veltliner. Yes.

Amalie is unabashed in her admiration for rosés. Examples of what she was pouring: Domaine Sorin and Chateau Miraval from the Côtes de Provence, Espelt Garnacha from Spain, an Italian Chiaretto, a Loire Valley Anjou, and more.

The reds, even though not too many people were ordering them on this hot day, were the essence of freshness and spice: a Burle Côtes du Rhône, Elio Grasso Dolcetto and Filipo Gallino Barbera from Piedmont, Artazuri Garnacha and Amezola Rioja Crianza from Spain, a Du Mortier Cab Franc from the Loire Valley (bloody good, literally) and a Love & Squalor Pinot Noir, made locally out at the Brooks Winery in Willamette Valley.

Occasionally, you might want to have a bite to eat to match up with all these interesting flavors, no? Considering that the kitchen is about size of a walk-in closet, the menu is more interesting and inspired than a lot of the other full restaurants I visited in the hopping Lower Burnside area. To wit: Cucumber Gazpacho with Cilantro Cream and Grapes (yes, of course, and why not?, $5), Smoked Trout plate with Fennel and Crème Fraiche ($7), Gnocchi with Prosciutto and herbs ($9), Braised Pork Crostini with Spring Onions and Apricots ($6) and more. If you’re feeling just a little peckish, there are Toasted Almonds with Pimenton (smoked Spanish Paprika) and Sea Salt or Olives with Orange and Black Pepper ($3 each).

In the end, Kir is a prime example of why an independent business should succeed: it is a singular person’s vision writ large (albeit in a small package). Kir serves what they like and are very convincing in persuading you to like it, too. It is no surprise that the passion inherent here seems to rub off; all the conversations I overheard were people talking about things they were passionate about. Other places I visited, people were talking about business (also not surprisingly, offering kind of boring wines).

There are places with huge wine lists, there are places with stunning views; there are places that are showy and grand, and plenty of attitude. But if I really want to be satisfied, I’m more likely to go here; to look up at that huge chalkboard, and just think: Yes!

• Address: 22 NE 7th ave., Portland, OR 97232
• Phone: (503) 232-3063
• Hours: Open Tue-Sat 5pm – Close
• Website: KirWineBar.com

[Jonathan Jenkins (you know, J.J.) has spent his adult life dedicated to food and wine (and other consumables). He is a freelance writer who lives in Northeast Portland.]