Wine shots – Cassidy’s

What Portland’s Pouring, By Jonathan Jenkins

When I think of the best places in town to drink wine, it’s really kind of a mixed bag. There are some places that clearly ‘want’ you to have some wine with your meal; others want you to have wine, yes, but it is more a function of their profit margin than their desire for you to have a memorable experience. In places that have a reasonable markup, you will see bottles (with their beautiful labels and shapes) on tables all around the dining room.

Cassidy’s wants you to drink wine. And if you are familiar with Cassidy’s, it might seem an odd thing to say. There are many (many!) people who think of Cassidy’s as a Service Industry Bar. It is one of those rare places that is open seven days a week all the way until bar time. But to think of the place in just those terms is to ignore the strides they have made in turning the place in to a genuine destination.

To begin with, Cassidy’s (smartly) does not have an extensive list of wines by the glass; they have an interesting handful of each color and leave the variety to the bottles, which are reasonably priced. This keeps the wines that they do have open fresh; you don’t have ‘tired’ bottles that have been sitting open because they been overshadowed by twenty other choices. The wines by the glass range from $5(!) to $8. Many other places we’ve been to lately start at $8 and go up from there. These are places I would rather not spend my money.

By the glass here, you can get a delicious Portuguese white (our $5 friend), a Provencal rosé, an Argentinian Chardonnay, an Italian Vernaccia, a deep Ribera del Duero red, or a local Pinot Noir (Viridian’s ’06) for $6.50. Pricing is firmly in the sweet spot.

When it comes to bottles, Cassidy’s clearly leans towards the Red; but they certainly don’t leave you out in the cold when it comes to the Whites. In addition to some classy locals, like the Brick House Chardonnay ($44) and the St. Innocent “Vitae Springs Vineyard” Pinot Gris ($32), you also get far-flung tasties like a Spanish Verdejo from Rueda ($29), affordable White Burgundy from Bouchard Pere et Fils ($30), Alsatian Pinot Blanc ($30), and a Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling from Selbach ($27). I sense a theme in the pricing, don’t you?

The overall theme of the Reds carries over from the Whites: it starts with well-chosen locals like Evesham Wood Tempranillo ($30), Patty Green’s “Croft Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($50), and the Resonance Vineyards “Pulse”

Pinot Noir ($38).

But the variety starts to spring up with the international choices.

Piedmont is here: Michele Chiarlo Barbera ($30), Bricco Maiolica Dolcetto Diano d’Alba ($32), and Rocca Nebbiolo d’Alba ($36). France is simply represented with two excellent choices, La Crau de ma Mere Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($50 – steal!) and Clos Cristal Saumur Champigny from the Loire Valley ($35). California is represented by a Petite Sirah, a Zinfandel, and a few Napa Valley Cabs (including one from the rock-solid Spring Mountain area).

Sparkling wines are not an afterthought. Even though there are just 11 choices, check out the territory that is covered: Cremant de Bordeaux rosé, two from Loire Valley (including a Vouvray), Spanish Cava, Italian Prosecco, Oregon’s Argyle ’03, Drappier’s “Carte d’Or” Champagne, and – because you almost have to – Veuve Clicquot. Half bottles? They have them, and they are a great idea: Gruet Blanc de Noirs ($18) from New Mexico, as well as an Italian Moscato d’Asti and a Brachetto d’Acqui (both $20). These are all instant fun for a little cash.

In the past, Cassidy’s was a little too heavy on the Californian choices. That has changed in the past few years. One of the reasons for this is the curiosity and continued learning of Jeremy Mielen, one of Cassidy’s veteran, anchor bartenders. He is a guy that is genuinely interested in food, wine and spirits. He’s done internships in fine-dining kitchens (just for the sake of learning) and is always on the lookout for interesting new liquors that pop up from time to time. He has helped increase the breadth of the wine list.

Food has definitely been on the upswing lately, with Chef Sam Reed taking classic dishes and giving them a little spin. Starters include a pretzel-crusted crab cake with shaved celery and Tabasco vinaigrette, grilled flatbread white pizza with arugula, watercress and balsamic, and chicken-fried pork belly with sweet corn mashers, red-eye gravy and a sunny side up egg (all $9). Or you could just snack on some french fries with smoked pecorino and rosemary salt ($6).

As a quick aside, I’d like to mention that the absence of capitalization in the food descriptions is not an act of aggression.

Highlights of the entrees include a grilled pork loin with watermelon panzanella and balsamic figs, chicken scallopini with arugula and fennel salad and a caper-brown butter vinaigrette (both $15), and solid comfort food like pilsner-battered sole with a fennel-beet slaw and fries ($13) and a burger with smoked gouda and bacon aioli ($10). And just so you know, there is (of course) a Happy Hour from 4-6pm and 10pm-2am (service industry workers take note).

Bob Cassidy has been in the business of keeping people happy for three decades now. If there is one singular talent of his that I can pinpoint, it is that he hires very well. The consistency and quality of service is rare, really; it’s the definition of Casual Professionalism. Bob is also one of the most engaging, interesting guys in town, as well, but that’s just a bonus.

Cassidy’s is not a place that aims to impress; it’s a place that is thoughtful and satisfying. The main barroom itself is the essence of warmth, with well-worn artfully-carved woodwork (that is clearly from another time). The wine glasses aren’t fancy crystal; they don’t need to be. The Pomp is out; the Class is in. Cassidy’s is a true Portland institution. You just have to remember how good it is; and see how, after thirty years, it is still getting better.

• Address:1311 SW Washington St, Portland OR. 97205
• Phone: 503-223-0054
• Hours: Daily, 4pm-2am
• Website: CassidysRestaurant.com

[Jonathan Jenkins (you know, J.J.) has spent his adult life dedicated to food and wine (and other consumables). He is a freelance writer who lives in Northeast Portland.]