Tondero Travail, Pinocchio Spin, Balinese Blossoms

Tondero, Latin/Fusion restaurant set to open in the old Harrison Fox Tower building, has been having a few issues. Construction problems – both the space and the new parking garage across the street – have pushed back the opening date several times. Latest I’ve heard, is a test dinner early next week for Fox Tower tenants, and then a public opening as early as Thursday. Sounded like things were finally getting on track.

Even better, word from a tenant in the building is they started a pretty intensive employee training a few weeks ago; another good sign. PFD contributor Johnathan Jenkins of La Bodega Wine Shop is choosing the wine list. Executive Chef Amy Jermain, last of Andina, and Slow Bar, had reportedly come up with some really creative dishes, heavily influence by her stint at Andina. But wait. She quit a few days ago. I’ve heard several reasons behind her abrupt departure – too corporate, not enough creative control, mutual agreement, not so mutual… either way, she’s gone, and they are scrambling to fill the void by shuffling people around in the kitchen. I wish them the best of luck, but I’m starting to get nervous.

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Pinocchio has mastered the art of spin control. On November 17th, Roger Porter’s review of Pinocchio is published. Some choice gems:

 

I cannot tell a lie. Pinocchio is the most mediocre restaurant in years to occupy prime downtown real estate.

More:

Right now the cooking smacks of airline food, but here you can’t bring your own onboard.

It gets worse. You can read the entire review here (link no longer public).

A few weeks later, Pinocchio sends out a press release. First mistake, they don’t BCC the email list. As an excited friend said “Now I have the email address of just about every PR and media contact in town!”

Attached to the press release, is a .pdf titled “Pinocchio Oregonian Review”. Wow, I thought. I’m surprised they are mentioning such negative press! Then I opened the file. It was a completely different fluff piece, written by someone named Angela Allen. She makes the restaurant sound really good, but if you pay attention, you’ll realize she never says anything good about the food. It’s pure puffery. I’d link, but I can’t find it online (though it is dated 10/26 from the Oregonian). Don’t ask me to post it; the attachment is 14 megabytes – another gaffe.

I’m not sure whether to be disgusted with Pinocchio from trying to put such a spin on their terrible review, or impressed they did such a good job. Perhaps a little bit of both.

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Citysearch, repository for some of the finest reviews of Portland restaurants (cough), has announced it’s Top Ten (NEW) Restaurants of 2007.

 

1. Toro Bravo
2. Clyde Common
3. 23 Hoyt
4. Country Cat
5. clarklewis
6. Dove Vivi
7. Toast
8. Pinnochio
9. Biwa
10. Terrior

Rather strange.  There are a lot of good restaurants in this town, only three of which are on this list (my opinion, feel free to argue). They also give a honorable mention to Leonardo’s, Lolo, Nutshell, and Aquariva. hmm.

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Joanna Miller recently went to a Balinese party. I’ll end with her experience, but only after I say this. I think Balinese food is a highly acquired taste. Over the years I’ve had quite a few traditional meals, but it’s just not my thing. Judging from her experience, I may be in the minority. Thanks Joanna!Great food always seems to happen when I am not expecting great food. Sort of like: “life is what happens when you’re busy making other plans…”, or something like that. In this case, good food is what happened when all I was expecting was a couple-few deviled eggs and a bowl of Chex Party Mix.In any case, when I went to the Concordia Neighborhood holiday party this evening in the Community Room of The Kennedy School, I certainly did not expect to be treated to artfully-presented, delicious Balinese appetizers and desserts. But, quite delightfully, I was.Priska Hillis and her mother, who is currently visiting from Indonesia, made the food. Hillis and her husband, Mike, both relative newcomers to the neighborhood – and to Portland, graciously donated it to the gathering.
Due to my limited exposure to Balinese food, I took careful notes. (Rather, Mike took the time to write down for me what was served.) Regrettably, I left my camera at home, missing some very good food photo-ops. There seems to be a certain amount of overlapping on the Balinese/Vietnamese/Thai food continuum, but most items were singular and unique, unlike anything I’d eaten before.Rempeyek: a crisp wafer made from rice flour, egg and turmeric, crisp fried (but not the slightest bit greasy) and studded with whole Spanish peanuts. These are typically munched between bites of main dishes.

 

Lemper: Sticky rice cylinders wrapped in banana leaves. A vegetarian version was stuffed with a seasoned tempeh; another was filled with coconut-soaked shredded chicken. These, Mike told me, are an important ceremonial food, traditionally eaten to break the fast at the end of Ramadan. They are served with a smooth peanut sauce.

Chicken Satay: The one familiar item on the table, the skewers were served alongside a different peanut dipping sauce than the first, this one less sweet and studded with sautéed shallots.

Dadar: Miniature eggey crepes, dyed a brilliant red (beet juice) and green (pandan leaf), both colors filled with palm sugar sweetened coconut. Sprinkled with even more shredded coconut on top, they were as pretty and festive as they were sweet and satisfying. This may have been my favorite item.

Perkedel: Just in time for the first night of Chanukah… latkes made by the Balinese bubbe you never had! These were fritters made from mashed potatoes, fried shallots, garlic and Chinese celery. The peanut sauce made a fine stand-in for applesauce and sour cream.

Why am I telling you about food that you cannot access? Well, actually, you can. Priska Hillis is available to cater private dinner parties and special events. She is also a personal chef and teaches group cooking classes.

Archipelago Flavors – Featuring the cuisine of Bali, Java and beyond.
503 593-3611
Oh yeah, and I also met some lovely fellow Concordian neighbors, and I left with a door prize: 3 rolls of Seventh Generation paper towels, made from 100% recycled materials. Happy Chanukah to ME!