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Review: Thistle

I promised myself I wouldn’t allude in this review to Eric Bechard’s incident this spring involving a defiant defense of local animals, a stance provoked by a rival chef who, in his eyes, had heretically championed a Midwest over an Oregon pig. The great porcine passion probably put Bechard’s name on wider public notice than did his successful stint at
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Yakuza

There are times when I’ve gone to a restaurant and had an incredible experience, but for various reasons I didn’t make it back. Such was the case with Yakuza Lounge on Portland’s northeast side. I had my first experience with my friend DOR last October. It was such an-out-of-control meal we ended up having their burger for dessert. After my
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Grüner

Grüner isn’t a “German” restaurant, nor does it bill itself as such; rather it is Alpine. This is a vast region that includes pieces of France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland, Slovenia, Hungary, and even a bit of Balkan and Mediterranean influences. All of this is alongside the distinct regional cuisines of Germany. Like billing a restaurant “Italian”, most of us know
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Echo Restaurant

Echo opened in 2006, and was quickly popular after a lot of positive reviews. After a long series of chefs and more hills and valleys than a roller coaster, a new owner is in place, and though the menu has stayed close to the original fare, the quality is much improved and seems consistently prepared. Sometimes you just want to
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Review: Toro Bravo

Note: this post is a complete re-write of the 2007 review – an extra 1500 words. I’m going to stray off the topic of Toro Bravo for a bit, but to understand Spanish food, it helps to have a little understanding of the culture behind the food. Spain tugs at something deep in my soul. Maybe it is because taste,
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Nel Centro

On a cool evening a few months ago, I sat with friends on the patio at Nel Centro. Three fire pits allowed heat to drift across our table. The flames, reflected in window after window of the hotel, were sometimes three layers deep. Sheltered from the transit mall, it was a little oasis. Vines climbed nearby walls, the background music
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Review: 23Hoyt

Since it was first built by Bruce Carey Restaurants, the 23Hoyt space has gone through multiple incarnations. The first was a short-lived Italian restaurant named Balvo, the second, 23Hoyt, managed by the well known chef Chris Israel. Chris has now moved on to open his own restaurant. Now, a third version has emerged, billed as a “New American Tavern.” With the downslide in the economy, changes were made, and the focus and menu changed considerably. The current chef is Chad Church.

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