Spanish Reds from Strange Places: Deals on Spanish Reds

Spanish reds are simply embarrassing the world competition when it comes to value. Whereas in the past, the classic regions of Spain (Rioja, Ribera del Duero) were producing solid wines, now the whole country is getting in on the act. Former lesser regions that were previously considered oenological backwaters are now giving much more expensive wines a run for their money. Among the reasons why: decades-old vines finally put to good (heavily-pruned) use; large co-ops turning their sights towards higher quality standards; and flat-out better vineyard management and wine making.

The Spanish have the perfect balance of tradition and innovation. They continue to work with their indigenous varietals, but are doing it with much more care. The harsher climates within the country are being reined in and the cooler regions are going for longer hang times – resulting in fuller, fleshier, more approachable wines that still retain their individuality.

A handful of importers and wine makers are making the biggest strides simply by leading by example. Importers like Jorge Ordoñez and Eric Solomon’s European Cellars are making sure that wines are being made well and shipped well. Winemakers like Telmo Rodriguez are roaming the countryside looking for little parcels of land that have lain dormant or not lived up to potential – and then they are exploiting the living hell out them. But in a good way, of course.

Trust me, people; Spain is where it’s at. Why would I lie? Why?

Here are just a handful of regions that are stepping up and making smart decisions and even better wine. There are several other regions in the same boat, but with wine – as with so many other things – it’s perhaps better to learn in little bits and pieces. Otherwise, facts stack up, blur, and become just so much work. And that, my friends, is not the kind of buzzkill we’re after. I don’t think.

- Costers del Segre
-In the Costers del Segre – a part of the Catalonian Nation – they do a great deal of blending. Rarely do you see single-varietal wines. Here they are using a mix of indigenous and international grapes. Grapes like Tempranillo and Garnacha share the stage with grapes like our old friends Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In the end, you get impeccably balanced wines that you can afford to drink every day.
*Recommended: Castell del Remei, ‘Gotim Bru’, $13.50; Vall de Baldomar ‘Baldomá’, $12

- Calatayud
-This is, simply put, a place to find stunning values. High up in the Northeast corner of the country, Garnacha (just another name for Grenache) is in charge around here. These vines are often at high, high elevations and benefit from scorching days and cooling nights. Stress during the day and relaxation during the night. Sound familiar? It’s a well-respected pattern for both grapes and humans.
*Recommended: Bodegas de San Alejandro, ‘las Rocas’, $10

- Terra Alta
-Up in the Terra Alta, which is way up high in the mountains of Catalonia, the cooperatives are seeing the success that their neighbors in Priorat are having and are turning their focus towards producing quality wine instead of overly simple, relatively dead table wine. Again, blending is the key here, like in the Costers del Segre. Half Old World, half New World – these wines can have a deep, roasted-fruit character that can be immensely satisfying.
*Recommended: Vilalba, Selecció Vi Negre, $11

- Jumilla
- Jumilla (yoo-MEE-yah) is the perfect example of an underachieving region in Spain. In the past, the soaring temperatures in this part of South-central Spain made for cooked, overripe, alcoholic wines with no finesse. At least during those years, the vines continued to age – that’s about the only good thing you can say of that time. Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvedre and Mataro) is a classic blending grape in the French Rhône region that in Jumilla is well capable of standing on its own. All it needed was a little bit of love.
*Recommended: Luzon Monastrell, $9; Juan Gil Monastrell (a more sophisticated fella), $15

- Yecla
-Yecla, in the Southeast over by Murcia, is a very remote area that has recently become the top up-and-comer in the Spanish wine scene – which is saying something to be sure. The difference in quality between now and the past is perhaps the most stunning. They are really turning their fortunes around here, using smart blending (with Cabernet, Merlot, etc), while getting the most out of their workhorse grape, Monastrell.
Recommended: ‘Solanera’ (Monastrell/Cabernet blend), Bodegas Castaño, $15

Jonathan Jenkins (you know, J.J.) has spent his adult life dedicated to food and wine (and other consumables).