Sharing a Bit About Sherry

“If I had a thousand sons, the first humane principle I would teach them should be, to forswear thin potations and to addict themselves to sherry.” – Falstaff

Sherry is truly a special product. It takes so much time, patience, and skill to make something so unique. Also, it is a product of ingenuity: the Albariza soil and maritime climate of the ‘Sherry Triangle’ near the bay of Cadiz does not lend itself particularly well to fine wine. So the grapes in the vineyard do not achieve the kind of depth of flavor that still wines do. Sherry, then, is an accomplishment of man more than nature.

There is a Sherry for every occasion – the range of flavors is astounding. You could sit down to a seven-course meal (O couldn’t we?) and match a Sherry perfectly to every course, regardless of the cuisine. The natural range of Sherry – from crisp and refreshing, to nutty and dry, to raisiny and sweet – neatly echoes the natural progression of a fine, extended meal. Only in this case, you can do it at home just as easily. Or, if you’re fortunate enough to be at one of our better restaurants in town, sample them with appropriate dishes (plus, you don’t have to clean up afterwards).

To narrow the focus here, I will be using as an example a particular brand, Lustau, who is consistently excellent and easy to find (the local distributor is Lemma – excellent people who know their business). These are specific ‘batches’ of their product that I’m particularly fond of – but don’t be afraid to experiment with other brands. I’ve have very little bad Sherry. Ever.

Fino, ‘Puerto Fino’
Our first wine comes the the city of El Puerto de Santa Maria, one of the three cities of the ‘Sherry Triangle’. It is by far the smallest production of the three – a mere 4% of all Sherry produced comes from here. It is worth noting that the wines with the most distinct aroma are earmarked for Fino and Manzanilla Sherry. They are protected and kept pale by a layer of yeast called the ‘flor’, named after the ‘flowering’ of yeast that occurs in the open space left at the top of the barrel. Absolutely clean and fresh, this makes traditional white wine seem limp.

- Manzanilla, ‘Papirusa’
Manzanilla Sherry is simply Fino Sherry made in the coastal town of Sanl£car de Barrameda. Here the sea air imparts a slight briny tang to the wine. So you have here a Fino that is designed to match perfectly with seafood, especially shellfish. That delicate scent disappears happily into whatever little dish (tapa) you may be nibbling on. (Parenthetically, any place that serves their Fino or Manzanilla at room temperature has no idea what they’re doing. It’s not enough to simply ‘have it’. Chill this stuff up to enjoy it at its best.)

- Amontillado, ‘Los Arcos’

This wine is named for the Bodega Los Arcos, which is the central site for Lustau production. Amontillado starts out the same as Fino, made from the same essential grape (Palomino Fino). But if the wine itself is fuller bodied and lacking the aromatic finesse of Fino, part of the flor is removed, allowing the wine to oxidize. The wine at this point slowly takes on an amber color and a nuttier, deeper flavor. Amontillado can be served cool or at room temperature and is a tremendous match for cheese, nuts, pates and consommes.

- Oloroso (dry), ‘Don Nuno’
Oloroso (‘scented’) is simply Amontillado that has been allowed to oxidize longer. Oloroso can be dry or sweet, but it is remarkably complex either way. Try this little bugger with some smoked or cured meats, or my favorite way, all on its own.

- East India Solera
The East India Solera is technically an Oloroso to begin, but is then fortified with a little Pedro Ximenez, the hyper-sweet grape that is the primary driver of some of the most exquisitely rich dessert wines in the world. Like IPAs, this type of Sherry originates from the British and their colonization of India. Ships used to use the kegs as ballasts on the sides of their ships. They found that by the time they arrived the Sherry had become something altogether unexpected – and then they sucked it down.

There is, of course, plenty more to know, but this is just a little taste. Lately, and thankfully, there has been a surge of recognition for the greatness of all things Spanish. So take your time enjoying these Sherries; they are all about delicacy of aroma, texture and, especially towards the end, complexity of flavor. Also, these pack way more of a punch than wine or beer. Now that you’ve been warned about the one hazard of Sherry, please kick back and feel as European as you please.

Jonathan Jenkins has spent his adult life dedicated to food and wine (and other consumables). He is a freelance writer who lives in Northeast Portland.