I think I’m love with these wines

Let me just say right off the bat that Valentine’s Day can be a real rough holiday.
Restaurants, in particular, on Valentine’s Day can be absolute meat grinders, with customer expectations at an all time high, and the reservation book looking like the scattered contents of a physicist’s mind. Sometimes, however, chefs can do special menus on this day that rival their best work, inspired by the passion that is necessary to become a chef – or a good lover.

But, in the end, some of the most romantic meals are the simplest – made at home to the specific tastes of the Other. And nothing dresses up a table better than a few candles and an elegant-looking bottle of wine. Now, elegant looking means just that. Sometimes a pretty label goes a long way; and it doesn’t hurt if the wine itself has a suggestive texture or flavor: Lush. Deep. Silken. These are good words, yes? It almost sounds like your halfway there, doesn’t it?

So if you’re hitting up your favorite restaurant, here are a few general suggestions. If you’re doing your own thing at home, specific recommendations will be mixed in. Obviously, the restaurant prices will be higher than retail.

First Things First:
Do not underestimate the power of bubbles. Even if it’s just a glass to start you off. If you have a reservation and your table is running late, a little glass of something can really take the edge off as you wait…and wait. Remember, the bubbles in sparkling wine help to ‘deliver’ the alcohol faster than still wine. So don’t get surly, ‘kay? Happiness is the general idea, here. Or, as a short cut, when you’re sat, simply ask if they have any “sparkling rosé to start things off”. This request, not being specific, increases your chances of getting a more reasonably-priced wine that doesn’t have to be Champagne, which may break your bank. And to paraphrase the Eagles, there’s nothing quite like pink Champagne on ice.

Home recommendation: Crays Sparkling Loire Rosé 2002 ($13 retail) – this is fantastic stuff, just so likable. It has a strawberry freshness, but finishes with just a touch of smoke, making it silly and serious at the same time. Made with Cabernet Franc.

The Italian Angle:
Lordy, we’ve got us some Italian restaurants in this town, don’t we? Well, to me, Italy’s strong suit in wine is the vast number of varieties available – there are so many types to choose from. Don’t limit yourself. If you’re out, and want something safe yet different, ask for a Carmignano (car-min-YAH-no). It is a blend (primarily) of Sangiovese, with a smaller percentage of Cabernet; sort of a Chianti Plus. It’s not an Americanized wine, either. The inclusion of Cabernet is law in this region.
Home (or restaurant) recommendation: a ‘Ripasso’ Valpolicella. A ‘Ripasso’ has been beefed up by brief contact with dried grapes used for the much more expensive Amarone, or Amarone Recioto (by definition, a big-money wine) from the same region in Italy, the Veneto. It is deep and slightly plummy, a big but not obnoxious wine. Examples: Masi ‘Campofiorin’ 2003 ($18); Secco-Bertani ‘Valpantena’, 2003 ($15).

All I really want is (not another) Merlot:
First off, Sideways, the book, was one of the worst I’d ever read; I dare you to read it. The movie? Kind of cute. But it absolutely destroyed the market for a perfectly good grape. Which is a shame, considering there is a reason it is (or was) so popular. If you are at a French, or French-leaning, restaurant, you should be in good shape. If you want Merlot, ask for it. But specify: a French Merlot-based wine. There are several wonderful choices out there from Pomerol, St. Emilion (which works in unison with Cabernet Franc), as well as just plain Bordeaux – which may sound vague, but there is some excellent ‘country wine’ out there. Trust your server; if your don’t trust your server, ask if their wine buyer is available.

Home recommendation: If you want the Idea of Merlot, try Spanish Tempranillo. In general, it has some of the same traits as Merlot, but with that singularity that comes from European soil. And it can be affordable enough to get more than just one bottle. Examples: La Uve Toro Crianza 2001 ($12); Valserrano Rioja Crianza 2003 ($15). These last two are directly imported by a local company, P.S. Wines, that consistently has some of the best deals in town.

Sweet and sticky:
Dessert wines are a great way to finish up a romantic meal. However, if you’re at a restaurant and the place is absolutely swirling with business, you may simply want to get out of there and give the table up. In this case, if there are other options in the neighborhood, try having a little taste at another place. There’s something about having desserts or matching wines in a different location that makes it a little special. Seasoned party throwers have long advocated having dessert or coffee drinks in another room or locale; you can do the same yourself.

Home recommendation: If you want just a touch of bubbles with your sugar, try a bottle of Moscato d’Asti; it’s low-alcohol and is rarely sickly sweet – Italian places will often have half bottles because the fizz in Moscato is delicate and can’t withstand being open for too long. Check out Montaribaldi’s version ($13 retail); again, this one is locally imported.

For something that holds up at home as well as at a restaurant, try a Madeira. Any old type will do – just ask your bartender. Madeiras have already been oxidized, so they won’t go bad on you; it’s great for having around the house when you want just a little something to send a signal to your stomach that your meal has truly ended. I’m really fond of the Cossart Gordon 5-year olds – there are different varieties to choose from, like Malmsey (a fuller-bodied style) or Bual (a bit more moderate, but gently raisiny). They tend to run around $24 retail, and should last a long time in your kitchen.

And there’s nothing quite like something that lasts a long time in the kitchen. Have fun!

[Jonathan Jenkins, Aka, J.J., has spent his adult life dedicated to food and wine (and other consumables).