It seems early to post a review of Lucier (or is according to the polls we’ve run), but Heidi Yorkshire of Willamette Week, has posted a review that pretty much echos my feelings, and also rakes a bit of mud:
In his official biography on Lucier’s website—and in an interview with WW—Chureau stated that during the period from 1986 to 1990 he worked at several restaurants in Paris that had three Michelin stars, a ranking held by a tiny handful of restaurants. Yet the restaurants he names as his employers were not then and have never since been awarded three stars (see note, below). Perhaps he’s truly forgotten the ratings of the establishments where he’s worked. But if he’s trying to establish his bona fides for attempting this kind of food, what he’s got on his résumé isn’t as important as what’s on the plate.
Interesting no one else has pointed this out before. Her overall view of the food is that it fails to reach its potential:
Lucier’s menu comes across as a disjointed array of ingredients and techniques. It seems to have been written by feeding a swarm of trendy food buzzwords in several languages into some kind of random computer recipe generator: ravioli, harissa, picholine olives, micro greens, ice cream, jus, emulsion, cacao nibs, cromesquis, reduction, kumquats, gastrique, yuzu, lemongrass, griottes, guanciale, cappuccino, white anchovy, heirloom and infused oil each make an appearance. The diner is left wondering what the chef is trying to say, and why.
Excellent review, and based on two early visits, I’d I agree with her conclusions. You can read the entire piece at the WW website: The Trophy Wife
I read the piece over lunch today – there were no big surprises.
I’ve not been to Lucier at this point, but have spoken with many that have. Like many, I think it’s a little early to pass final judgment. But I can’t help but wonder at this point if we’ll start to see references to “circling the drain” that have been cast upon others in the past when they have been, well, less than truthful about pertinent matters.
Camas Davis also had a short piece in the recent issue of PM but she didn’t seem to really “review” Lucier. And, hell, there may have even been a blurb in The O’s Mix (maybe by Nancy) too.
They must have a corkage fee or something. I agree that it’s a little early to pass judgment, especially if one has not been there yet. But I can’t help but wonder if referencing “circling the drain” is a judgment.
Considering the owner is worth some 100 million a year, I don’t think he’s really in this for the money. As others have said, I do consider it interesting that he spent so much money on the restaurant, but instead of important a chef with real chops, he instead bought Fenouil to get Chureau
I have yet to eat a full meal at Lucier yet. I keep waiting for the dust to settle and hope they figue things out. I agreee with the comment that for all the money invested, why Pascal ? I also believe that Lucier may hhave deep pockets, but they are running a business. If I am not mistaken but there have already been staffing cuts/changes due to in decrease in projected volume. Maybe Lucier should look to do what TEN01 did and change the concept and executive chef asap? Lets face it the space is beautiful. It can still be haute cuisine, maybe just simplify it a bit?
I think Heidi wrote a good piece and it was very fair. In the corporate world, dont they fire upper management types for lying on their resumes? If Pascal truly stated he worked in lower rated restaurants that never recieved 3 stars, then isnt that lying. At least they apparently hired the right pastry chef.
MR –
That was a good one about the corkage fee – even though you didn’t weigh in on the topic regarding Fenouil several weeks ago. And it wasn’t the O’s MIX, it was a short piece by Anne Marie DiStefano of the Tribune last week about mostly drinks.
And while I’m not privy to the “reasons” for the som’s departure, I’m sure that the Dussin’s will be having a chat with Pascal regarding Heidi’s discovery.
Salud!
One of the problems with aiming so high is that you paint a target on yourself. I think it’s fair to say that there are many folks in the food community here that would just as soon see Lucier go down in flames. I’m in a different camp. I think Portland really needs a restaurant that can succeed at this level and I have to admire the effort and investment that has gone into Lucier so far. We had a great dinner there recently, but not everything worked. I’d say our experience was a bit better than Heidi’s, but her review didn’t strike me as grossly unfair. Of the 4 entrees and appetizers we had, two were disappointing, the rest outstanding. Not bad (but agree that those prices, I’d expect 8 for 8). The service was very good, certainly at the level I’d expect it to be. Before passing judgment, I’d give them time to listen to the feedback and work out the kinks. I think the potential is definitely there. While bringing in some major outside talent might have been a terrific idea and exciting to think about, I think Pascal deserves a chance.
J&J
It seems like they went really hard for the optimum restaurant experience before they were able to operate on that level. This happens a lot, but almost all of the best restaurants in this country slowly built up to 5 stars. Le Bernadin just got it’s 5. It’s so easy to take on more than you can handle in the restaurant business let alone when you get to the level Lucier is shooting for. A for effort to Lucier; I have to say I do hope we see a Mobil 5 star restaurant in Oregon someday, I don’t think it will be Lucier.
We enjoyed over 2 hours of fine dining in this gorgeous new addition to the Portland waterfront, everything we sampled was of the highest quality, we can’t wait to return. :)
I’ll be trying the dessert sooner than anything else.
Go for the Lemon Souffle, I have some photos of our meal posted on egullet. :)
Wow. I just read the extended meltdown over this review over at portlandfood.org.
Heidi raved about the pastry chef, praised the service, loved the sommelier and the cheese cart, and noted Lucier’s attention to detail and comfort. She found the dishes a mixed bag, and called the chef on what appears to be a big fib. Agree or disagree with her — fine. But some people seem to find it an affront to Portland in general. I busted out in a horselaugh at the poster who sniffed “Naive palates abound” — again, like her or dislike her, but there’s nothing naive about Yorkshire or her food knowledge.
I know Heidi and like her, so consider that disclosure — but this current tempest is reminiscent of her being the first in town with the stones to call shenanigans on Ten01. Others then followed; the restaurant paid attention; and everyone benefited in the end.
Kevin–
Why not post your comment over there, then? Your comments here seem out of place.
BTW, you know what makes me burst out in a horselaugh? A review about a review over a reviewer!
Good Lord, I just read them too. I have never in my life seen owners of the same restaurant duke it out on a blog before. I can’t believe anyone would do that.
It’s interesting that people seem to be so interested in how Nick and I get along. For the record – Nick and I have been having heated discussions about a lot of things for a couple of years now, both online and off. We’re two very different people with differing views in many areas. These include politics, films, haute cuisine, women’s reproductive rights, free-market economics, etc. We debate pretty vociferously from time to time, and inevitably agree to disagree, or, if we can’t, usually just get tired and stop, and move on.
One area we’ve never disagreed on is the quality of the food and service we’re trying to put out at our business. Doesn’t mean we’ve always been successful, and sometimes we’ll disagree on how to resolve certain problems. But we inevitably come to be of one mind in these areas and are usually pretty successful in problem resolution.
Our business is doing just fine, thank you, and seems to be on track to be successful, long term. We are, in fact, looking at the possibility of some satellite projects right now, which, trust me, we wouldn’t be doing if our partnership was in trouble.
Okay…we good? Oh, and I agree with Suds Sister – pretty idiotic remarking on one board about a discussion on another. You shy, Kevin?
“Oh, and I agree with Suds Sister – pretty idiotic remarking on one board about a discussion on another. You shy, Kevin?”
Well…you’re here, just as I was there; I’m not suggesting you’re an idiot, just pointing out that there’s a lot of back-and-forth between the two food boards, discussion of WW and the Oregonian, and the like.
No, I’m not shy; I sign my name to my posts.
Nor did I suggest you’re an idiot, just that the practice of criticizing the comments on one board from the safety of another is idiotic. And while I am, in fact here, it’s to defend against or clarify comments made here, not somewhere else.
“Safety”?
Good Lord, man. I don’t find your board unsafe in any way; it’s just another food board on an Internet full of them. You’re certainly welcome to find my comments here idiotic and to say so here, there, or wherever you like, and we’ll just disagree.
It was all just a matter of time…..
Ditto the above response. We’re fine, thank you…You can return to your regularly scheduled life now.
How could it not be about money…would not Lucier’s prices have started even higher by importing a 3-star or 5-star chef? I read HY’s insulting headline as an intent to extinguish the sizzle. Is this a good example of why she is known as the “poisoned pen” ? Similar to wine tasting, it’s her palate not yours!
Remember, they supposedly bought Fenouil just to get the chef. Not exactly a cheap purchase, but on the other hand, I think the O reported the owners are worth 100million
How do you make a small fortune in the restaurant business?
You own Old Spaghetti Factory. He’s also starting to open another chain of 50 restaurants (I think that was the number).
I think it odd that anyone would choose to do their laundry in public and be surprised that people notice the laundry.
I assume by laundry you would be referring – as the term laundry applies when most people use it – to the public airing of the business that transacts between us. This is something that we have never, ever done, and I defy you to find a single example of it. Otherwise you’re just blowing gas.
Any discussions we’ve ever had in public have been about restaurants, politics, etc. Fair game as far as I’m concerned and doesn’t affect out partnership one way or another. Actually, I’d think you’d praise the fact that we can have such lively discussions – which, I would think you’d agree, are what boards such as this one and Portlandfood.org are all about – and still manage to thrive on a business level.
Oh, I thought you started with a large fortune.
So much for my business plan.
But really, from old spaghetti to lucier???
What is it that drives big money restaurant people?
If I had loose ziillions I’d go out to eat
not open some joint. (sorry, destination)
Very true chefken. I had pastrami at KZ on Friday and it was as good as always.
Kinda weird that various internet threads allegedly about Lucier have ended up in covering pastrami, movies and inter-personal relationships that no-one cares much about. Time to visit and check it out I think.
Isn’t this thread about “Chef” Ken?
See, that’s the thing. On PF.org it was about Lucier. Over here it became about what Morris rightly pegs as “inter-personal relationships that no one cares much about.” Nor should anyone. Other than Stive “Waiter,” who needs something to do now that Shamelessbile.com has closed up shop.
As one of the moderators of this site, I feel this thread is getting off topic. Please stick to the topic of Lucier or start another thread in the forums.
In addition, I find the whole “us vs. them” PFD.com vs. PF.org banter sophomoric and small town. Who cares if someone chooses to comment on one site rather than another? This isn’t an internet version of the Bad News Bears.
As far as Lucier, I’m interested in how the restaurant will gel and/or evolve over the next couple of months. They have only been open since June, so I’m reserving judgment until it is past the three month mark and until I have had a chance to eat there a couple more times.
One thing that does bother me about Lucier, and it isn’t related to the food or service (which is why I feel ok commenting now)– why would they block the wonderful view of the river with all that Chihuly glass on blocky museum pedestals in clunky glass museum cases. One of the most well thought out design elements of the restaurant was the flow between the interior design and the natural landscape outside. The flow seems marred and blocked now. There is also the giant, can’t miss it TV screen, and the residents of the condo across the street on view from the bar and the deck. It’s made for some entertaining theater, watching the condo dwellers watch TV and eat potato chips, and has certainly been an interesting sight. I can’t decide if I find annoying or charming. It’s so prominent and distracting, though, it has become part of the Lucier decor and experience.
why would they block the wonderful view of the river with all that Chihuly glass on blocky museum pedestals in clunky glass museum cases?
Dale Chihuly it ain’t…. I was told by our waitstaff that it was made by one Chihuly’s guys, but not under the Chihuly studio name.
They block it because they know no better. Spaghetti Factory is cluttered, just as Lucier. They hired some big “New York” firm to come in and make a NY scale restaurant in Portland. And the art glass is the tacky taste of the lead designer trying her handle at “decorating”.
And don’t kid yourself. Their pockets don’t run that deep.
Rumor has it, they canned 3 top level (six figure) Executives that were with the company for over 30 years just to be able to free up cash flow to pay for this endevour.
Makes me think twice before I even consider visiting their establishment.
Why is “‘New York’” in quotes in the above post? Is it because the firm isn’t really from New York (maybe, as in New York-style, kind of like cheese cake) or b/c it is? Or is it b/c, regardless, New York is bad since this is Portland and we wouldn’t want to have anything like they have in the actual New York, such as a really cool actual 5-star restaurant (no comment intended here on Lucier specifically)?
Oh yeah, and “‘decorating’”. . .in the quotes again. . .what’s with that? Oh, never mind.
–”mcz”
Oy. Now everyone’s an art and design critic as well as a food expert.
Maybe I had my face primarily focused on the food during both of my Lucier visits to date, but I seem to recall having a remarkable view out to the Willamette from the dining room w/o any noticeable blockage. I also found the Chihuly-style glass sculptures visually stunning, esp after the sun went down and the lighting in each display case went up. But what the hell do I know—I thought looking for dogs and hooters in the pictures @ The Louvre was top-notch entertainment. (In my defense, that was a long time ago and I might have had an adult beverage or two before the Mona Lisa up-close-and-personal.)
And ch-nay-nay, I enjoy the way you take an unsubstantiated rumor and morph it into a fun fact (ie. b/c it’s rumored that execs were axed to provide cash, therefore it’s fact that Dussin isn’t all that wealthy). Bit of a logical leap–or perhaps you can expand on the shameless gossip-mongering that’s keeping you from trying Lucier–itself a precious non sequitur. (Actually, on re-reading, I can’t tell what is making you “think twice” before trying the place–Dussin’s lack of rumored wealth, the firing of the top execs or the “tacky” design.)
To the point, have any of you mavens actually eaten there recently? Anyone want to step up and endorse/refute Heidi Yorkshire’s leading edge commentary? Has Chureau or anyone associated with Lucier/Dussin had the courage to step up in response to the charge of resume padding? Or did they take the standard p.r. advice to lay low and wait for the problem to blow over with the next passing story? Which raises another question: does it really matter if Chureau intentionally gassed up his credentials? I have real mixed feelings on this. Who hires (or eats) based on good character? OTOH, if someone’s going to lie about something as fundamental as their professional credentials, what wouldn’t they lie about?
TTFN. Off to SF this weekend for some serious fressing. Suggestions welcome.
–mcz
Darling, Darling Darling –
I know more about that company than you would ever want to know…call it insider information at it’s finest…..
So if you think that I’m taking an “unsubstantiated rumor and morph it into a fun fact”. Think twice.
:o)
uh. . .yeah, sure i’ll just take your anonymous, unsubstantiated “insider” word for it. money in the bank, eh what.
you couldn’t possibly be a disgruntled former employee, could you, Darling Darling Darling?
—mcz
Wah – what MCZ said, to the first.
And the second.
Sorry – Not a former employee dah-ling – I just know one of the Exec’s that was “excused”
i just heard the alleged scott calvert dismissal epic, last night. i still felt dirty when i woke up this morning.