It’s an incredibly fertile time for the Portland restaurant scene; there has been an absolute flurry of openings in the last year or so. We haven’t seen so much activity since, well, last year’s flurry of openings on Alberta, Mississippi, and Williams Streets (hello, PDC!)
Meanwhile, the restaurants that have been in business for a while are seeking an infusion of new blood (or new capital) to infuse them with the freshness that garners so much attention from the press – whether it be local, or the seemingly endless supply of puff pieces that the venerable New York Times showers upon us humble folks up in the sticks here. It must really be a slow news decade in the New York food scene (and L.A. for that matter: witness the siphoning of Angelenos touting our “incredible ingredients”).
But down in the Pearl District, our own Little Angeles, there are a handful of restaurants that predated the condo stacks, franchises, and seemingly innumerable places to have a nine-dollar cocktail.
Before there were Doggy Day Care Centers with cute names, there were places like I Fratelli, Oba!, Bima (RIP), and the much-lamented restaurant formerly known as Cafe Azul. There was also the partially sidewalk-submerged charm of Giorgio’s.
Giorgio’s opened about eight years ago. They’ve been through a few chefs since then; I’ve eaten their food. I’ve also forgotten nearly everything about those dishes. I usually have near total recall about things I’ve eaten or drunk. In the case of my previous experiences at Giorgio’s, all I can tell you is that my entree involved Kobe Beef, and after I ordered a nice bottle of Venetian wine (where the owner is from), he quietly deposited the unopened bottle on my table and walked away. The bottle sat there for a good, uncomfortable ten minutes. Mysterious.
But hey, that was five years ago. Recently, a friend of mine clued me in to the fact that they had brought in a new chef a few years ago and that he was pulling off some real next-level cuisine – and with relative ease, to boot.
That chef, Peter Schuh, came from New York, where he had spent a few years at Thomas Keller’s Per Se. The amount of time that he spent there was enough to pique my interest. This wasn’t a guy who spent a couple weeks doing his stage (aka, preparing mirepoix for a celebrity chef) to bolster his resumé. He had logged some hours.
So there we went, to try to eat everything on the menu. We came so close; and I’m still scarred. I simply wasn’t prepared for how good it would be.
The room at Giorgio’s hasn’t changed much; it is elegant, somewhat old-school and L-shaped, with well-spaced tables that still seem intimate. On occasions when I was dining alone, couples at neighboring tables often started conversations with me about what we were all eating. We all seemed to be in open-mouthed awe of what we were having the opportunity to taste. Other times, I literally exchanged bites with total strangers. There was exchanging of food, opinions, and wine.
The meals start with an amuse-bouche, a bite-sized taste to get the taste buds working and to clue you in to the general style of the cuisine. This is exactly what is done here: a dab of smoked salmon mousse en croute. This might sound reductive, but those two little bits represent the play of textures that encapsulate Chef Schuh’s food.
The courses flowed from there:
Fava Bean Panzanella with Preserved Shallots ($13) was the first of many shocks. Panzanella is a painful buzz word to me, signifying soggy bread and bad tomatoes. This had snap, crackle and just a bit of squish (in the best of ways).
Summer Minestrone with White Bean Agnolotti ($9) – are you kidding me? Minestrone? It almost seemed like the chef was taking the most pedestrian of Italian dishes and turning it inside out. This ‘soup’ also had a great deal of interplay of textures, along with pasta that was prepared and cooked perfectly.
Crispy Pork Belly with Braised Walla Walla Onions and Pickled Bing Cherries ($12) tasted as good as the description implies; the difference being that the pork belly was offset so beautifully by the other ingredients. It didn’t seem like the heavy-handed piece of pig that every chef in town has been trotting out lately.
Handmade Potato Gnocchi with White Oregon Truffles and Watercress ($14) gave off a tremendous aroma and the little pillows gave just enough without being mushy. It almost tasted like there were nuts snuck in there; a soulful and moving dish.
The Buffalo Mozzarella Salad with Nectarines and Aged Balsamic ($14) was apparently the chef’s deconstruction of the Caprese Salad. This was simply brilliant; using nectarines in place of tomatoes, substituting the flavorful fruit for the relatively watery essence of a “decent” tomato.
We started off the entrees with another keyword that sets off my food alarms: Cappellini, here with Oregon Morels and Pancetta ($26). It was perfectly proportioned, you simply scooped up a forkful and each bite delivered its full complement of intense flavors. Here I had a bad flashback to Cappellini alla Pomodoro; I shivered, took another bite of what was in front of me, and went back to La Dolce Vita.
At the beginning of the meal, I had expressed a general lack of interest in vegetarian dishes. Even so, our server recommended we try the Tomato and Basil Scented Tortellini with Garden Zucchini, Pinenuts and Olives ($26). The simple description belied what was coming; like much of the rest of the meal, this dish had the thing that defines Peter Schuh’s cooking: Textural Elegance. Even at this point of our meal, we weren’t weighed down. We weren’t stuffed; we were satisfied, inside and out. Even so, there were a few more things to eat before my fellow diner cried “Mercy”. I may never forgive him for not having that extra stomach.
We skipped one of their signature dishes, the Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragu, Moscato and Pecorino ($24), even though it sounded intriguing. I was assured that it would still be on the menu later and I would have ample opportunity to try it. I took their word for it, but the Pecorino and Moscato did sound intriguing.
We finished our entree sets with a pair of fish dishes: Atlantic Halibut wrapped in Serrano Ham with Fava Beans, Piquillo Peppers and White Bean Puree ($29, and worth every penny) and a Slow-Baked Copper River Salmon with Roasted Romanesco, Cauliflower Puree and Sultanas – a sweet, sometimes raisiny grape ($28). It had been a long time since I’d had Salmon; this was as silky and rich as the best versions I’ve had – usually dishes done at home, where there is no rush and you can carefully monitor the temperature of the fish.
We finished with a well-chosen selection of cheeses. It was an excellent comedown from what was, quite simply, the best meal I have yet to have in Portland. Bar none.
A few other points of interest: the wine by the glass list is extremely limited. As in, two or three (!) choices each of red and white. But if you roll with them and simply get an affordable bottle (and the wine list is well chosen and pretty fairly priced, considering the real estate) it’s a much more “homey” feeling anyway. There are well-made classic cocktails as well, Negronis and the like, should you be feeling fancy.
The service – every time – was gracious, low-key, efficient, informed, and quietly funny.
In general, Mr. Kawas (the Giorgio in question) seems to have pulled off a relative coup in today’s Portland: he has hired well in both the front and the back of the house. Though the prices may at times seem like a king’s ransom, the king was worth it. And I’ll gladly pay.
Phone: (503) 221-1888
Address: 1131 NW Hoyt St, Portland, OR 97209
Hours: Tue-Thu 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. Fri 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm. Sat 5pm-11pm
Website: www.giorgiospdx.com
Jonathan Jenkins has spent his adult life dedicated to food and wine (and other consumables).He is a freelance writer who lives in Northeast Portland.
Funny, I worked at Per Se in NYC for the past three years and the only thing that I remember about Mr. Schuh as being there for two months and just being a staggaire. I really wish that the chefs in this town would focus in on their food and stop trying to embelish their resumes. He is doing a good job at Giorgio’s but needs to stop lying about his background. Myself and Chef Accarrino think that this is pathetic and pretty juvenile. Hey, I too can open up a cook book and replicate it verbatim and say I worked for that chef.
Is a staggaire just a waiter that’s had perhaps too much
Bordeaux? Cause I’ve been that, but I never thought to put on my resume’. Myself and Chef Boy-R-Dee are pretty juvenile. Oh-Oh!
Spaghetti O’s!
JJ: Sorry you didn’t try the pappardelle, because that’s the dish that made me vow never to set foot in Giorgio’s again. The noodles were thicker than they should have been and had been inattentively cooked, so that many of them were stuck together; where they were stuck, the pasta was underdone to the point of being chalky. The sauce was good, but it didn’t salvage the almost inedible pasta.
To be fair, our first courses were delicious, but what I remember is the pappardelle.
WellSeasoned, I’m curious how long ago you went. For the record, I’ve never been to Giorgio’s.
1.Nice Review
2.Never been to Giorgios either, and I live around the corner, got to try it.
3. The schizophrenia of deriding New York and LA and admiring anyone who even implies they worked there is becoming amusing!
4. Sidemeat has been a staggaire? Quel horreur!! NOW I am intrigued!
Maybe chefs should follow standard business practice…if you weren’t there for a year, you probably shouldn’t put it on your resume!
FD: That dinner at Giorgio’s was last February. I’m pretty sure that Schuh was running the kitchen by then.
I’m going to bring something up here because it has come up before.
Let’s get the term correct please before we rip on others for putting it on their resumes. The word is spelled Stagiaire which may literally translate to stager (as in to stage something) in French but really means Intern or trainee. It is the common term and practice in France for all industries except the medical profession. It is also not only quite common to put it on your resume, it is expected. Not sure what a Staggaire is, but perhaps Sidemeat’s definition is more on the mark.
Secondly, it is common business practice to list internships and the like in the U.S. on one’s resume, even if they are two months or so in both restaurants and in other industries. It shows that this person has experience. Showing up to work daily, pulling through a shift, and doing what others working there are doing, plus the idea that there is a learning component. 2 months is a fair amount of time to get how a kitchen works, how a chef prepares and plates certain dishes, etc. And let’s face it, like all jobs you want your resume to stand out and shine. Having a well known, well regarded restaurant, and working under the eye of professionals chefs and diverse places in diverse geographies on your resume does that. However, it would probably be best if Stagiaires specifically stated what they were doing at restaurants to prevent any misunderstandings and to be upfront and transparent about it.
As for Giorgio’s. Sounds like from the comments it might be the typical restaurant inconsistency factor at work.
Nice write up JJ. I like your way with words.
the food is incredible at giorgios, i wont lie. rather or not mr. schuh was at per se for months or years, i do not know, but either way he consistently produces wonderful food. i however, cannot say that i’ve heard such rave reviews of the the owner himself.
I was there about a year ago and had a good, but not great, meal. The main course was very good (pork 3 ways, including belly) but I remember dessert being less than good…in particular a chocolate cake that was burnt to order (nothing like waiting an extra 15 minutes for a dessert that arrives almost inedible).
The service was good, but overall it wasn’t a meal that inspired me to return. True, it was only one meal, but at the price level (the entree was around $27) and because there wasn’t a lot that appealed to me on that particular menu I’ve not been moved to try it again…though I’m not necessarily avoiding it either.
I have had both good and bad meals at Giorgios. ( More good than bad ) I think the Chef and his crew are really trying. I think my bad meals can be attributed to bad days on both of our parts. But what restaurant in town hits it out of the park every day? Not many ….what worrries me is that with Lolo opened up, how long will Giorgios stay open? Not that I wish them ill will. But I heard Lolo sat/served more guests in a shortned first week, then Giorgio has seen in a month. Lower food cost items, cheaper rent, more volume, George isnt a dummy. Why keep Giorgio open? Higher food cost, Pearl Rents, less volume. Giorgio does a decent Friday & Saturday night. But the week nights are quiet…never need a reservation. Maybe I am thinking too much….JJ I am glad you had such a good experience.
I don’t think the words of NYC are entirely accurate. I know Peter through Giorgio’s, I have been a fan of Giorgio’s for years… I also enjoyed the food of the previous chef, Michael Clancy.
Peter and I have had great, interesting, and humorous conversations about previous kitchens he has worked, from Jean Georges to Per Se. I find him honest, humble, and very straight forward. From my experience, this is not a person who to fabricate his personal history.
When I dined at Per Se I was forutante to meet the chef de cusine Jonathan Benno while getting a personal tour of the restaurant. He spoke highly of Peter.
Also, I might mention that to imply or suggest that Matt Accarrino is stewing about, thinking Peter Schuh is behaving in a way that is pathetic and juvenile… is exactly that NYC, pathetic and juvenile. Why hide behind his name? What is your name?
I would also suspect Accarrino is pretty busy with with Colicchio’s Craft in LA, not likely to be reading this review by JJ and ringing you up… speculation I know, but then again, I don’t believe your assertion in the first place.
Peter Schuh is the executive chef of an amazing kitchen with a wonderful group of people who consisently put out exceptional food. I know Giorgio and many of the FOH service team… all enjoy working with Peter. His team in the kitchen especially Rory and the adventurous kiwi Jude, all enjoy his personality and commitment. I recognize your allegation regarding Peter do not speak to this element of his personality but I nevertheless feel these kind words deserve mention in light of your scurrilous accusation.
So NYC why not enlighten us as to who exactly you are? What did you do at Per Se? And what is it you are doing now? What kitchen are you the executive chef of?
JJ, I too have had absolutely incredible meals at Giorgio’s. Plus the service and charm can’t be beat. Thank you so much for taking the time to re-visit this wonderful Portland restaurant and share your experience.
As for NYC’s comments, he or she sounds like someone with a personal issue of some sort that has nothing to do with the strength of this chef’s character or the high quality of the food. Like Nathan (above) I, too, have chatted with the chef de cuisine at Per Se on a kitchen tour arranged by Peter Schuh. This gentleman spoke very highly of Peter’s time at Per Se and his skill preparing incredible meals. Other staff at Per Se also treated me as if I were a princess just because I knew Peter.
So thanks again for the review of one of my favorites. And a nod to Giorgio himself who has to be one of the sweetest and most customer focused small business owners I have ever known.
Funny, last time I ate at giorios, Mr Kawas took our desert order,it never came!!! wtf??? So we waited for about 15 minutes wondering what was going on, it was a slow night with maybe five tables of people, so we finally asked him where was our desert course, he said he forgot, I was like and you run this place???
Needless to say it was the last time I went back.
Great review, JJ!
Giorgio’s is hands- down my favorite place in Portland. Elegant, understated, and great ingredients. What more do you want?
JME
Here’s my quibble with this review, and I bring it up because it seems the author’s loose handling of words and facts has brought out accusations of resume fraud:
So, “a few” is a bit of a weasel word that can be taken many ways, but in this context, I think “more than two” is an appropriate interpretation. So I could rephrase this as “more than two years ago, Giorgio’s hired a new chef who worked more than two years at Per Se,” which is clearly not possible since a quick Google search would confirm a foodie’s recollection that that Per Se opened about three and a half years ago. This incongruity jumped out at me long before I read any of the follow-up comments.
A simple phone call to get the actual facts in this regard (rather than repeating hearsay), and a better choice of words, would have gone a long way towards bolstering the credibility of the review.
But JDG, you forget the effects of the sidemeat uncertainty principle.
It’s taken so long for my cocktail, I’m not certain I ordered one.
Two months in any kitchen seems like an eternity.
I’d show you the math, but we now run into the Newtonian reality
of operations at a news behemoth like PFD.
You don’t just ‘stop the presses’
Fact checkers must yield to copy boys.
And I’m at deadline… COPY!!!
JDG:
Sorry to poop on your shoes, thusly. Judging from your usage of “hearsay” you are either British or an Attorney (or have aspirations of being one or the other) – in either case I can’t help you. That is your cross to bear.
As regards the facts – again – sorry. I was told some things. I took them to be true. All I can do is parrot those facts like the ‘tard I am.
Let me just say this re: qualifications. I had the opportunity to work for one of my heroes for twelve hours (it was a charity event). I learned more in those twelve hours than I did in twelve months working elsewhere. But I would never put that on my resume. It was just a part of the fabric of my learning. No biggie.
And I would have done better research, but my Google was broke, which – as you may know – is crippling in Modern America.
Big thanks to the folks with the positive comments. I appreciate it.
I’m with JDG and NYC on this one, I’m afraid. CBF, your explanations of a stagier is excellent, however, one needs to remember that to stage is to literally “volunteer” to work, and therefore, is not a position in which one is “hired” for, rather it is a try-out. A chance to see if you fit in with the rest of the crew, a chance for the restaurant to fill a temporary need, and a chance for the stager to learn.
To place a stager on the same level as someone who was “hired” because of ability and background is like being the personal assistant to a CEO and saying you ran the company. A Chef makes menu decisions; a stagier does not. A Chef is responsible for productivity, profitablity and managing/motivating a team of cooks on a daily basis. Again, a stagier does not. Incidentally, the term Chef means someone who is in charge of a brick and mortar kitchen. Just because you graduate from culinary school, does not mean you can call yourself a chef. You are a cook.
Yes NYC, as someone who receives resumes daily, there IS alot of fabrication going on, and it is demeaning to the rest of us who HAVE put in the time, and worked the shit jobs for years to get to where we are now, and didn’t lie about where we have been or for how long, in order to get here.
But like JDG says, it just takes a quick phone call, and JJ, your response to JDG comes across as too defensive. You got called on your fact checking. Take it like a man.
If you have read my ramblings this long, please take my advice. To get upset as to whether or not a colleague is fabricating their resume is a waste of energy and time. Too many people do it; you’ll never catch them all. Instead, focus on your own strengths, correct your own weaknesses and grow as an industry professional. Professionalism in hospitality includes not throwing stones. There is way too much glass….
When I said “sorry” I actually wasn’t being facetious. I was apologizing for not having the story straight. Sometimes I come off funny.
Bottom line is, I’ve eaten fourteen dishes of the guy’s cooking, and there wasn’t a single misstep anywhere. I guess that’s all that matters to me. I hadn’t been impressed like that for a long time.
pdxwineoh. Good to know. I hadn’t really thought about it in those terms before.
Pedigree aside, If a meal is good, does it matter if a five star chef
made it, (right) or, dare I say, a cook?
Hey JJ, no poop on my shoes — I’m not on anyone’s side on this one. My Factinista attitude comes more from being an anal-retentive engineer than anything (I am neither a lawyer, nor British, nor do I have aspirations to become either). But as long as we’re all kind of venting here, the one thing I HATE above anything in the gastro-blogo-sphere (and in engineering, for that matter) is gratuitous name-dropping (witness comment 12 above — “His team in the kitchen especially Rory and the adventurous kiwi Jude…” — why do you feel the need to tell me the names of people you know in the kitchen, including their nationality and/or personality traits? It reeks of cronyism/ass-kissing and is a real turn-off to me, not that my opinion matters.). I’m with the meatster on this one, I don’t care who made my food if it’s good. When a review or posting reads more like a cult-of-personality write-up than an honest assessment of the food (which this review DOESN’T, JJ, but it does lean ever so slightly in in that direction), I start to get suspicious about the honesty of the evaluation of the food, and apparently others do too.
Oh, and this:
Give yourself more credit, my friend– you certainly can do more than that, and it’s not that difficult or time-consuming, and it will pay off. I was honestly trying to give a little constructive criticism, not flog you. Lots of people in these parts claim the Portland restaurant scene is held back by inconsistency and inattention to detail, so don’t let it be also said about the Portland restaurant reviewing scene.
Well-written review of one of my favorite restaurants. The food is outstanding, the space is great, and the owner is sweet and personable. I couldn’t care less about the credentials of whoever’s in the kitchen – I’m just consistently happy with the food. We go there about once a year and have always come away ridiculously satisfied. Thank you for bringing this little-known gem to light.
JDG,
Really? Name dropping, cronyism and ass-kissing? Gratuitous?
To clarify, my intent was to give a shout out to a couple of the other people in the kitchen that get it done. Plain and simple. Also I might add, I have not worked at Giorgio’s and don’t spend time with anybody that works there outside of time spent there. Further more I don’t even live in Portland anymore, but enjoy this blog and like to check in for ideas when I make visits to Portland.
Strange you “HATE” that aspect of my post because this blog is ripe with name dropping and cheering sections for places people love. It seems when a “darling” of a restaurant comes long and everybody sings its praise and plenty of names are mentioned. Look at the Park Kitchen thread for instance. Does that bother you as well?
The subject was Giorgio’s and things regarding Giorgios’… seemed pretty sensible to mention others affiliated with the establishment. Regarding the mention of personality or nationality, if that truly bothers you, I am again somewhat surprised… how would you rather people behave in this blog?
Tell you what JDG, you set the guidelines on when it is appropiate, from your perspective, to use names or places when making a comment on a blog about restaurants. I can’t say that I’ll abide by your guidelines, however I may find humor in them as I do your last comment. Also perhaps you might want to elaborate for JJ on when to even mention the chef in a review or his or her history. Maybe a book on how to review? Or better yet a blog on how to review!
Also you may want to ease up on the “HATE” when reading a blog or the comments generated from a review. It’s just a blog afterall.
Let’s stay on topic please – Giorgio’s!
Nathan: I used a quote from your post as a close-at-hand example and wasn’t calling you out specifically; you are correct that name-dropping and insider shout-outs are pervasive in almost every food forum I read. And just because I hate some things that some people do, I don’t expect them to change — but I can still express how I feel about it. That’s why blogs have comment sections. And I’ll shut up on the matter now.
I’m in the camp of “I don’t care who the chef is or where he came from; I only care if the food is good.” Giorgio’s has long been my favorite restaurant in Portland–because the food is darn good.
I’m definitely looking forward to my next visit there (in a week or so, hopefully).
Having Dinner last week with Gary Danko, Thomas Keller,
Eric Ripert and Mario Batali we all agreed that name dropping was so gauche.
I think giorgios is the best restaurant in town… There are a few staples but things change weekly and they are always amazing. everytime i go in there i have the best service and the best food. I don’t think that there are restaurants in this city that can even contend…. as far as peter schuh??? He is very talented and he has hired a brilliant staff to help him create an unforgettable experience.
i think giorgio’s is fantastic. good food, good wine, cozy atmosphere. as for the reputation of people there? who cares! good food is good food!
After skimming through the above responses, it is evident that there are a few “piled high pasta dish egos” unable to meaningfully absorb Giorgio Kawas’ belief that “Italian Cuisine IS a serious matter.” But, don’t get lost in your meandering serpentine (as in noodling) solipsism. Crucial to valuing the cuisine is recognizing its rustic simplicity and exquisiteness. You will find that it is based upon the fresh, innovatively balanced seasonal ingredients, prepared and fused together in such a manner that leaves one’s palate with the sense of experiencing Italian ethos for the first time. Remember, it’s not just about YOU! It’s about good cuisine, good wine and good people. Rest assured, Giorgio has assembled just that.
Ahhh I fell tingly and warm.
Last time I fell, tingly and warm, it was an aortic thrombosis. Happens, to me at least, all of the time.
As luck would have it, Faith Popcorn and Jelly Roll Morton were there to rush me to St Elsewhere.
Oh, but now I’m just name dropping!
(Thank you Dr Who)