First Impressions: Five-O-Three

On a recent visit to Five-O-Three, it scored a hit in creativity, service, atmosphere, and most of all in seasonal food prepared and presented impeccably. This eatery in a newly renovated strip-mall-cum-life-style-center delivered a dining experience seldom found in the suburbs. Settling into a cozy booth, our foursome selected an Oregon wine from a respectable list. (Although I have to wonder if West Linn ready for a $95 bottle of pinot noir.) An amuse-bouche of baby chanterelles drizzled with white truffle oil and herbs seemed over-the-top for our jeans-wearing group, but one taste and we knew we were in for a special experience. Opening with squash soup, surprisingly garnished with cranberries and crème fraîche, we moved on to three entrees: New York strip for each of the men, bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin with squash puree and sweet potato crisps, and (for me!) beef short ribs with horseradish crust, sautéed spinach and potato gratin. Lest the NY strip sound ordinary, the sides and presentation were noteworthy. Served abed collard greens and with crisp fried potato chunks, the steak was sliced across the grain to reveal its warm pink center and was further graced with mustard sauce. Our Oregon Tempranillo complemented each dish nicely. My spinach was tender, a little sweet, laced with savory red onions. Perhaps the best restaurant spinach I’ve eaten. The chef’s creativity shown in the thoughtful individuality of side dishes for each entrée. No predictable side-of-spuds and asparagus for all! Everything was beautifully presented, down to the right plate for each dish.

Dessert was similarly pleasing. Usually we share two desserts among the four of us, but tonight the menu spoke to each of us in a different way. Molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream was simplicity on the plate and decadence on the palate. Cobbler encompassed apples and blueberries, warmed just a touch and served with orange creme. Peanut butter pie was a fluffy, peanutty individualized tart completely encased in a fudgey coating. On a truly unique seasonal note, delicate, warm pumpkin fritters were served with spiced ice cream and candied pumpkin seeds.

Service was excellent, if a little over-orchestrated. At least two servers approached the table with each course, ensuring simultaneous delivery. Thoughtfully, a shared soup course was split between each pair of diners, eliminating slurping out of the same bowl and fighting for territory. The menu includes several appetizers, three salads, and additional entrées, such as scallops, roasted chicken, duck, halibut and more, each with carefully composed sides and creative flavor combinations.

The atmosphere is warm and inviting, casual yet smart. It looks like they’ll have outdoor space during the warm months. This was a first visit. Sustaining quality and creativity will be key. We’ll go back and when we do, I’ll report on changes, good or not-so-good. For now, I wish 5-0-3 all the best. There is always room for a non-formula restaurant that challenges the palate and clearly cares about what it serves and how it is served.

  • Phone: 503-607-0960
  • Address: 21900 Willamette Dr, West Linn, OR 97068 GoogleMap
  • Hours: Tues – Fri 11:30am – 10pm. Saturday open until 11pm. Closed Monday.

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Comments

  1. johnee says:

    We went to 503 tonight, in part based on the favorable comments here. Amazing, to say the least.

    We ordered the French fries with blue cheese as an appetizer, along with a simple cheese plate. TWENTY FIVE minutes later we received potato chips and a plate of cheese from the bus boy who could not explain what anything was (this is a $25 an entree restaurant, btw). No, really potato chips. They were sent back adn “blue cheese” fries appeared. Unfortunately, there was no discernable blue cheese on the blue cheese French fries. And the cheese plate came with four pieces of bread for four people. Hmmm. We finally got more.

    We had one botte of one of our favorites, the Bruno’s blend from Walla Walla, then ordered another bottle of Zerba Cab. I sniffed it. Couldn’t smell a thing. They poured it, it was ice cold, no wonder there was no nose.

    Ditto for the next bottle, from Tamarack. Which, by the way, we had to beg to get, after the previous bottle was gone and we were dining on the wrong entrees (below). (Our server was chatting it up in the kitchen, which we could see, rather than looking after us.)

    They served a risotto appetizer. Two tablespoons. Okay, maybe three tablespoons for ten dollars. In all fairness, it was good but wow, was it tiny.

    They served our entrees — uh, wrong entrees. To fix the mistake would take another 20 minutes, so we just took what they served us. What is sad to say is it was very, very good, but it was not what we ordered. By then we were pretty frustrated. Some entrees are also very small, by the way, especially for $25 to $30 an entree.

    To compensate they were going to give us a dessert from a very unimpressive menu. Wow, thanks but no. We were, by that time, not happy and said they needed to do better. To their credit they did, comping the two entrees we didn’t order but were too starved to refuse. Still, $200 later we left.

    I guess we should know better than to leave the city! Our bad! D’oh! However, no thanks to posters here who recommended it.

    Given time, 503 might train their staff to be knowledgeable, they might not chill the red (yes, I know slightly chilled is good but ice cold is not), they might get orders right (again, at $20 to $30 an entree this is not too much to ask) and might recognize the difference between French fries and potato chips. Until then we’re staying in town to eat, our friends in West Linn will have to come up here.

  2. Apollo says:

    Hmm, I had the opposite experience there on the two occasions that I have dined there. The service I had was competent, and maybe even over fussy. Yes the portions are not your typical suburban chain restaurant portions, but I don’t think they are that small. I do not think it is the best restaurant in the Portland area by any stretch of the imagination, but for the suburbs, and especially the restaurant wasteland that is West Linn, it is pretty darn good.

  3. Megan says:

    We had brunch at Five-O-Three and it was great! Live music, large portions, and delicious, fresh food. I would highly recommend it. They brought out fresh scones and cream and we loved the eggs benedict.

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