Well folks, it official: the New York Times has proclaimed that the economy is officially screwed. And while that may in fact be true, that doesn’t mean you can’t have a good time. There’s a ton of wines out there that don’t carry around the financial albatross of a massive marketing department and it’s accompanying bloated prices. A whole world exists of underrated and underpriced beauties. Oftentimes, they are from out of the way places – or they are white wines from a region known for their reds, or vice versa. Either way, whenever you steer away from the obvious you are apt to discover wines that are just as appealing and well-made as much more expensive ones. It’s just that they don’t have full-page glossy ads or a fancy pedigree going for them; then again, the same can be said of most of us, yet we’re all still so lovable.
The prices listed are approximate retail. Your local wine store can get these wines for you with a simple phone call (the local distributor is Triage Wines). So throw your business to your neighborhood shop, or, of course, to whoever is nicest to you. Here we go.
- Brut de Savoie, Pierre Boniface, NV, $17/bottle
- On the far eastern edge of France, bordering Switzerland, Savoie (Sav-wah) is a mountainous area known for its sturdy, cheese-based cuisine (as in Tomme de Savoie), its incredible summertime weather and jet-set skiing. This is a lovely sparkler that has great class, fantastic texture and clean flavors. Although I ache for the bubbles and razor-like precision of grower Champagne, I am longer waiting tables (and throwing money around like a wingnut) so a wine like this is an excellent replacement (with little drop-off in quality). Instead of the traditional (and beautifully named) label of Pétillant, Pierre Boniface opts for the much more American-friendly word “Brut”.
- Bianco Piemonte, “Arcese”, Bera, 2006, $13/bottle
- This unusual wine is a blend of Favorita, Cortese, and Arneis. The first two varieties are known primarily for their acidity – and not much else. Cortese is the base for the famous picnic wine Gavi. Arneis is by far the noblest grape. But the particular way that they combined them results in something close to wine alchemy. It’s a fascinating wine that smells entirely different than it tastes and finishes: highly aromatic and floral, but with a clean, dry finish.
- Zweigelt Rose’, Loimer, 2006, $13/bottle
- This wine carries such a delicate, limpid shade of pink that you think it might be kind of flyaway. Anything but the truth. The flavors here are vivid, bright and strong – as well as well balanced. Frederick Loimer is one of the gutsiest winemakers in Austria; practically nobody makes a rose’ in the Kamptal region, which is widely considered the finest winemaking real estate in the country. If you see one on the shelf, try bottle of the classic red Zweigelt, too. It’s often affordable as well, and is delicious stuff.
- Blaufränkisch, Zantho, 2006, $13/bottle
- Blaufrankisch is known is Limberger in Germany and is grown in Washington state as Lemberger. It lays in the flavor territory between Gamay and Pinot. The fruit is soft, gently sweet, and the texture round. My Mom would love this wine – and she rarely drinks anything but German Riesling and Moscato d’Asti. Zantho is one of the most modern and forward-thinking wineries in Austria. Extremely consistent and well made, they also make Zweigelt and an especially obscure variety called St. Laurent – which I may like even better.
- Lagrein, Muri-Gries, 2005, $19/bottle
- Let me be very clear about this: I love Lagrein. It is a grape that tends to have a velvety texture (ala Merlot), but has a far more interesting flavor profile – tarry, slightly funky, but rarely off-putting in any way. Unusual, but safe: one of my favorite combinations in trying to find new wines for people to try that broadens their horizons, yet doesn’t freak them out. If you’re looking for a good time, look for a recipe for Bistecca alla Fiorentina and feel free to bastardize it with a little blue cheese over the top (instead of a squeeze of lemon). Yes.
And as per always, if you really like these wines, ask your local about case discounts (which bring the price to little above cost) or ask for some of their latest favorites that might be in the same vein. There are so many wine shops out there and so many opinions that you are likely to come across something that really rings true to you. Salud!
[Jonathan Jenkins has spent his adult life dedicated to food and wine (and other consumables). He is a freelance writer who lives in Northeast Portland.]
Does Triage Wines (distributor) do dock sales?
Affordable Euro finds are great, but there is good local stuff out there too. I love the Big Fire Pinot Gris from R. Stuart & Co {www.rstuartandco.com}. It is about $14/ bottle and you can find it at Zupan’s, New Seasons & Fred Meyer. Buy local and support Oregon’s wine industry!!
RM:
Yes, Triage Wines does do dock sales.
Abelle:
I think the point of JJ’s story is to highlight obscure finds…Pinot Gris, and especially Big Fire, is not obscure in the least bit.
I’m all about supporting Oregon wines and wineries, believe me, but when you can purchase something as interesting, and unusual as the Bera “Arcese”, for the same price or less, why would you only stick with Oregon Pinot Gris? In fact, by buying some of the really obscure European or southern hemisphere wines in our market, you’re actually supporting smaller, local companies that import and distribute the wines.
J.J., I didn’t know you were working for Triage now ;-)??
Other distributors carry some pretty interesting, affordable wines, too.
Would someone please explain “dock sales” in greater detail? I see that the Oregon Liquor Control Commission allows distributors to make limited retail sales to customers, and it calls such sales dock sales. Does this mean a retail customer can purchase a case of wine directly from the distributor?
sure other distributors carry intriguing, affordable wines, but it is nice to throw triage some love. They do carry a large proportion of the good wines out there, and just picked up the Dressner Italian portfolio, which is very exciting stuff. As far as supporting the local wineries goes, avoid Big Fire like the plague… I have been pleasantly surprised with the Montinore Pinot Gris for $11.99, and they are a sustainable/organic vineyard as well.