A Little Italy – A Sampler of Affordable Wines

Italian food and wine (and travel, for that matter) is certainly not lacking in attention.  Perhaps the main reason for this is diversity; there are so many provinces in Italy – each with its own bounty, style and attitude – that there is a seemingly infinite amount of things to talk about, write about, and experience.  What is true one place is rarely true of another; something simple here can be taken dead serious there.  Just as it is hard to corral the 50 states of America into a unified whole (see: election results), it is difficult to say what it is to be “Italian”.  The next logical question is, “Well, what region are you thinking of?”  Only at that point can you start to pin down what you’re talking about.

Here is a little bite-sized sampler of affordable wines from different regions that have just come into the market.  They were directly imported by a local distributor, Zancanella, who has good prices and excellent taste.  If you’re interested in trying them, your local wine shop can hook you up.  If you really like the wines, ask about case discounts; it turns a reasonably-priced bottle into a cheap one. Trust me (but only about this).

Barbera d’Asti, “La Consolina”, Montaribaldi, 2007, $13/bottle (Piedmont)

I start with this wine because it is, for a few reasons, my very favorite wine right now.  In the beginning, it smells like the wet stones and mineral bloodiness of a Loire Valley Chinon (a distinctive Cabernet Franc) – perfect for sophisticated types; in the middle, there is a juiciness that makes it accessible to a number of palates; and then in the end the acid comes in and cleans things up, reinforcing the fact that – although this wine is a blast on its own – it would prefer it if you had it with some food.  The neighboring town of Alba is taken more seriously, but Asti, with its famous Moscato and charming reds like this, seems like a lot more fun.

If you’d like to try a very different expression of this grape, for a few dollars more you can have a Barbera from the Punset winery, which to me is the purest, most textbook example I can remember – simply perfect.

Friulano, Giuseppe Anselmi, 2007, $11/bottle (Friuli)

Seriously, throw away that Pinot Grigio.  Haven’t you had enough of that stuff?  This has the same basic profile, but is a little more intriguing.  The grape itself was formerly known as Tocai Friulano until the Hungarians got a little uppity about it being confused with their famous desert wine, Tokaji.  Now it is simply called ‘Friulano’ after the region, Friuli. And as such, you can then pretty much call it the trademark grape for the whites from there.

Greco di Tufo, Torricino, 2006, $16.50/bottle (Campania)

Speaking of trademark varietals, in the Campania district there is no more famous white than the Greco di Tufo.  The grape itself is relatively simple, but the land – a mix of clay and calcium-laden soil, along with the sulfur mines that dot the area – puts its stamp on the wine.  It turns a simple wine into a fascinating one: bracing mineral qualities, bitter almond-like astringency and something vaguely floral.  Try this with fresh fish or any white sauce dish and it will take your head off.  In a good way, of course.  If you’re in the mood for some more fun, check out the other whites from Campania, Fiano and Falanghina.

Valpolicella Classico, Vaona, 2006, $13/bottle (Veneto)

I have distinct memories, before I cared or thought about wine, of seeing big bottles of Bolla Valpolicella on the bottom row of the supermarket shelves (where it was easier for my short self to see).  Usually there would be a little neck tag or flyer saying “Buy Me Now” in some form of marketing language.  It always seemed to be on sale.  Once I finally got around to tasting the stuff, it just tasted like boozy plums to me.  On the opposite end of the spectrum, in nearly every way, is the Vaona Valpolicella.  The production is microscopic.  The flavors are laser-precise and vivid.  And, most important for dinner, it is really dry.  It cuts through the heavy foods of winter and makes your mouth water a little.  Let this one breathe for a bit if you have the time.

Rosso di Montepulciano, Godiolo, 2006, $16/bottle (Tuscany)

-          Let’s take a moment to clarify a thing or two.  Montepulciano is well known as a grape (as in Montepulciano d’Abruzzo), serving as a plum and dried-cherry foil to the elemental cuisine of the Marches region.  It is also a big part of the equally bitchin’ Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno DOCs.  But the wine I’m talking about here is quite different, as it is from the town of Montepulciano in the Tuscan province of Siena.  The pride of the region is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (whose name translates pretty easily), but recently it granted DOC status to the less “noble” Rosso di Montepluciano.  The difference between the two is mostly grape selection; the prime lots go into the Vino Nobile, usually for a little more barrel aging.  The secondary lots go into the Rosso.  The primary grape, Prugnolo Gentile (proon-YO-lo jen-TEE-lay), yet another name for Sangiovese, is the same.  As in many other cases in the wine world, in the hands of a skilled winemaker the supposedly ‘lesser’ wine can be the equal of its pricier partner.  In this instance, you save about $8 a bottle or so.  All the distinctive Chianti-style dryness is there, but it has a healthy dose of suave to go along with its rusticity.  Just great winemaking.

Quick side note: Market of Choice is the place to get this wine now, but more will be available soon.  Patience pays off.

[Jonathan Jenkins (you know, J.J.) has spent his adult life dedicated to food and wine (and other consumables). He is a freelance writer who lives in Northeast Portland.]