In 1994, I had my first dinner at Ringside, yet I remember the night like it was yesterday. It was a cool, crisp winter evening. I wanted to impress a date, and knowing nothing about the Portland food scene, was told it would be a safe bet. Going inside was like stepping into a steakhouse circa 1960. It was dark and clubby with deep padded booths. A large fireplace took up the center of the room, the fire pushing back the winter chill. Autographed photos of various celebrities lined the walls. I kept looking around, expecting to see the “Rat Pack” drinking it up in the next booth. Attentive tuxedo-clad waiters did their best to make us feel special. The food was good, the date went well, and when we walked back out into the night, it had snowed several inches – the first snowfall I’d ever seen.
I’ve never forgotten that night, and looking back, it reminds me how much an evening can be influenced by factors other than the food in leaving a lasting impression. Ever since, I’ve thought Ringside was a good restaurant, and going back for my steakhouse reviews, I was looking forward to the experience.
Ambiance: Fifteen years later, the place looks exactly the same, albeit a bit worse for wear. Same pictures, same kitschy lampshades at each table, same tuxedoed waiters. However, something wasn’t quite right. I noticed it before we even sat down, and my companion remarked on it immediately. “Do you smell something?”
I am told at times that I am over sensitive to odors, but this one was unmistakable. The entire place smelled like mildew. Most noticeable when we first walked in, less noticeable when the restaurant filled, but still a bit off-putting. Nothing else seemed to have changed over my 15 year absence. Grade C.
Service: We arrived at the restaurant not long after it opened. Though only a few tables were occupied, I was surprised that the service wasn’t better. It felt very dismissive, like they didn’t really want to serve us, even though we were dressed nicely and were polite. After we ordered, everything changed. Suddenly our server took on personality, cracking jokes, and going out of his way to make sure we were happy. It took me a few days to figure out what I think was the reason behind the change in attitude. We had arrived just after they opened, and I have a feeling they thought we were there for the $25.00 “supper menu”. Once they realized we were ordering a large dinner, service greatly improved. It’s just a theory, but the only one that makes sense to me.
Other than the rocky start, the rest of the service was just fine throughout the entire evening. It was almost equal to all the other steakhouses in this series of reviews. Grade B+
Salads: Once again, we each had a Caesar. It was, to put it simply, not very good. The salad was underdressed to the point where many leaves had no dressing at all. The anchovies were a sad dried out afterthought across the top. Even worse was the Parmesan cheese. We both likened it to plastic, as it was in shards, and had absolutely no taste. I take back the “not very good”; this salad was terrible ($8.50). Grade D
Steaks: Once again I was disappointed. My 14 ounce New York was cooked to the proper medium rare, but had a crust on the top that was just to the wrong side of charred, giving it a burnt taste ($37.95). The 24oz. Porterhouse was cooked properly ($46), but both steaks also had more gristle than at the other steakhouses in this survey. Out of all the restaurants I tried, the meat here was the least flavorful. Grade C-
Sides were also weak. Entrees come with “Choice of Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Baked Potato, French Fries, Jasmine Rice Pilaf or Cottage Cheese”, which brings down the overall price of a dinner. An order of their “famous” onion rings were perfectly cooked, but an accompanying blue cheese/Heinz ketchup sauce was so bad I recoiled and wondered if I would be feeling any after-effects of those few tastes. I went back and had them again in the bar a week later, and this time the sauce was ok, but the first version should never have been served ($6.50).
An accompanying baked potato seemed to have been cooked the night before. I can honestly say I’ve never seen one so dry; no amount of butter or sour cream was going to help it. An order of asparagus was the best of the sides I tried, though even it seemed a bit past its prime. Accompanying hollandaise was average ($8.95). Sides grade C-
Desserts: After having tried the El Gaucho bananas Foster, I was interested in trying the Ringside version. No tableside show here, just a sad little plate from the kitchen, some melted ice cream over the bananas. It was a grade lower than the one at El Gaucho ($7.50). The apple crisp wasn’t much better – overly sweet and not very crisp, the apples too soft ($7.50). Grade C
Miscellaneous factors: Drinks from the bar were fine; a Tanqueray tonic was $8.50. The list of wines by the glass was good, with a mostly west coast focus; lots of California wineries with a few Oregon and Washington wines thrown in. Prices ranged from $7 to $17 dollars a glass. Three white wine flights are also available for $15.
The bottle list is impressive, with a large selection from around the world. It has some very good choices. The list is kept up to date, and designates the proper vineyard and year. A random sampling of markup versus retail found it to be slightly higher than other steakhouses I have reviewed, depending on the bottle. Domestic wines seem to be a better deal.
Overall, I walked out disappointed. If this steakhouse is to survive, it will need a makeover in almost every facet of its operation. Air it out, scrub it down, take a good look at the meat supplier, and focus on the cooking. Otherwise I’m afraid it will fade gently into that dark night.
The total cost of an average meal for two, consisting of two cocktails, two Caesars, two steaks, two sides and two glasses of wine, priced in the center of the wine list, was $142.00. Note that many of the prices in the restaurant are higher than is reflected on their own website.
This is part III of a roundup of Portland Steakhouses. You can see the introduction here, El Gaucho here, and Ruth’s Chris here.
- Address: 2165 West Burnside, Portland OR. 97210 (Google Map) Note their is a second location in NE Portland which I didn’t try.
- Phone: (503) 223-1513
- Hours: Mon-Sat 5pm-Midnight, Sun 4pm-11:30pm
- Website: RingsideSteakhouse.com
Tags: $ Moderate, Burger, Comfort-Food, Downtown, NW-Portland, Open-Late, Open-Monday, Open-Sunday, Review, Wheelchair-Accessible
I would have been surprised if your review had been anything different than what was written here. Your experience matched our last dinner there 6 months ago — we won’t be back.
You’re not alone in noticing that odd odor. I went there a few weeks ago for happy hour and noticed the same thing. Ditto the terrible service if you’re getting served lower-priced food.
For as much good press as the HH gets, it’s really awful and the portions are hilariously tiny, plus no refills on soda? Who does that anymore? That said, I went there maybe two years ago and the steak wasn’t terrible; my date had ordered a Kobe beef cut (I believe it was tenderloin) while I had the salmon, which was just okay. Her steak however, was pretty good. From what it seems like in your reviews, I’ve got to go to El Gaucho. Thanks so much for risking life (and heart!) in doing these reviews, Food Dude!
Oh, I feel so old. I stopped going to the Ringside in the late 1980s, but for the 15 or 20 years before that it was genuinely a good steak restaurant. The place to go before prom, for an important family birthday, or when visitors came to town.
I could have written that exact review of the Caesar salad at Ringside. So – spot on! Must be the standard there.
My friends ate at the other one recently and said the service was terrible and left embarrassed since they thought they were taking their friends from out of country to a sure bet. I guess it was a disaster and the food was prepared incorrectly as well so ……yikes. it’s a drag to see something that used to run so seamlessly now waver along like a cart with one wheel. It sounds like they are trying to save money.
Unfortunately, this has been almost my exact experience here too. The mildew smell alone ruined dinner for me, and the service we got, even with a huge dinner still was nothing to write home about.
There’s one way my husband and I enjoy Ringside: at the bar, during happy hour, two drinks apiece and a pile of onion rings.
As for that smell: to me, it’s more old salad dressing that’s been crushed into the carpet. Every restaurant past its prime has that smell, which hits you the minute you walk in. Always a sure sign to turn around.
Somehow this file mysteriously corrupted itself this morning, and no one could comment. Fixed now!
Regarding: “We arrived at the restaurant not long after it opened. Though only a few tables were occupied, I was surprised that the service wasn’t better. It felt very dismissive, like they didn’t really want to serve us”, I’ve seen how difficult it is sometimes for the FOH staff to transition from getting ready for service to actually being warm to customers. Those first few customers are actually invading the private space of the staffers who are in the back, sampling the evening specials, arguing or partaking of other creative experiences.
What?? REALLY? That is ridiculous. The staff should be ready to go when the restaurant opens. Don’t blame the paying customers for showing up too early. I have worked front of house and I can tell you that at any decent restaurant the staff is eagerly awaiting the arrival of those first customers and the waitstaff is hovering over the hostesses trying to get the first few tables. “the private space of the staffers…”: What a strange way to look at it…
To an old Portlander who grew up eating at The Ringside regularly, this is all sad but unsurprising news. My last meal there a year or so ago was average at best.
Not sure why the Peterson family has failed to put the money in to keep the place fresh, but it’s obvious they have not. If I were guessing, I’d surmise that the place isn’t terribly profitable, if it’s making any money at all.
Too bad. It’s hard to watch a generational icon falter.
–mcz
Isn’t terribly profitable?? I would venture to guess that the Ringside may be one of the most profitable restaurants in the city. Mildew doesn’t seem to be making much of a dent in the overflowing parking lot I drive past almost nightly. There is only one reason that a restaurant stays open for decades, and it’s not pride of ownership. I think it is safe to say that the Peterson boys can afford air freshener. : )
Ditto. This is how rumors start. From a business standpoint Ringside seems to be doing fine and will probably still be around when all of today’s golden spots are passe. Can’t speak to their dining room as I’ve only eaten in the bar–and I really liked it. Since the smoking ban that bar is so crowded you can’t get in.
I have gone to the later night happy hour in the bar and enjoyed the cheap burger, onion rings and stiff drinks. Ringside does that pretty damn well.
Again, the only surprise is why this was picked as one of the potential “best steakhouses in Portland” when the secret of the Ringside’s not so great food is not really a very big secret.
Never been there, now I probably never will (though I do have a thing for fireplaces). Thus far it appears that El Gaucho is more $$$, but very much worth it (my original opinion, as well). Gotta say, I doubt Morton’s is really gonna beat them (but we’ll see, soon enough!).
You doubt Morton’s is gonna beat Ringside? Wow.
No, Hunter, the “them” I refer to is El Gaucho.
Oh, thank god.
Ya’ll are just lucky it’s not April Fools day.
I went to Ringside a couple time a few years ago when I just move to Portland. “Kobe Style Wagyu Filet Mignon” $60 was my favorite.
However, I went there again very recently and the no longer serve “Kobe” beef. They still have bone in filet mignon but drop the price like $15 for a regular kind.
“Oysters on the Half Shell” while the oyster still stick with the shell.
I guess the quality drop a bit.